Electric Fencing 

I was quite confused when I first got my electric fencing and wire.
What do I actually need? Which type of wire is the best? And what kind of electric unit should I choose?

When I've spoken to people who are considering electric fencing, they often shy away from it because it sounds complicated and expensive.

But in reality, it's very simple!

I will refer to it as electric fencing, but in most cases it's really about the wire itself, which is the most commonly used part. There are also complete fence systems made with electric wire.

Also, everything I share here will be from the perspective of keeping predators out rather than keeping animals in


Having an electric wire around your property or poultry run is one of the best defenses against predators, helping to keep your birds safe.

As my own father used to say: animals will avoid areas where they hear the popping sound of an electric wire. Basically, the sound alone is often enough — the "ouch" effect when they touch it is just an extra safety bonus.

Electric fencing is also fairly inexpensive and simple to set up. However, it does require regular maintenance. Twigs can fall onto the wire, vegetation can grow into it, or snow may block it.

The more that leans against the wire, the less electric energy will be flowing through it.

What do you need? 

  • Electric Unit 
  • Wire/band
  • Insulator 
  • Grounding Pike
  • Electric Cable 
  • Fence tester 
  • Fencing posts
  • Warning sign if you live close to a road 
     
  • BONUS: For better protection have an actual fence rather than just the wire. 

Electric Unit

What type of unit you should choose depends on: 

  • The amount of wire you plan to use. 
  • What type and how much of vegetation you have on your land.  
  • Dry or moist soil 
  • Do you have acess to an outlet or not? 

The more wire you need — and the more vegetation you have — the more powerful (and expensive) the unit has to be.

If you don’t have access to an electric outlet, there are both battery-powered units and solar-powered units available.
If you don’t have access to an electric outlet, there are both battery-powered units and solar-powered units available.

On my own land, I have a lot of vegetation and couldn't afford one of the higher-end units, so I went with a cheaper option instead. As long as you keep up a good maintenance routine to clear away bushes, twigs, and other debris, the cheaper units work just fine.

Solar drived (solcells driven)
Solar drived (solcells driven)

Thin Wire I started with this type, and I honestly recommend against it. It doesn’t hold up well and breaks far too easily.
Thin Wire I started with this type, and I honestly recommend against it. It doesn’t hold up well and breaks far too easily.

Wire/band 

What type of wire I should choose confused me the most when I first got my electric fencing. Should I go with tape, a thin wire, or maybe a thicker one?

In my opinion, the biggest difference is not only how well they conduct the power, but also how easy they are to maintain.


Iron Wire In my opinion, this is the best choice. It conducts electricity more efficiently, is more durable, easier to handle, and looks better overall.
Iron Wire In my opinion, this is the best choice. It conducts electricity more efficiently, is more durable, easier to handle, and looks better overall.
The advantage of these is that they cover a larger area (providing more protection), but during winter they can be difficult to maintain. Snow makes them heavier, which can eventually render them ineffective.
The advantage of these is that they cover a larger area (providing more protection), but during winter they can be difficult to maintain. Snow makes them heavier, which can eventually render them ineffective.

Insulator for wire only
Insulator for wire only

Insulators

There's nothing particularly special about these. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The only thing to keep in mind is that if you're using tape or band, you need insulators designed to fit that type. 

Universial insulator
Universial insulator

Grounding Pike & Electric Cable 

These are essential for making your electric fence work properly. The grounding pike ensures that anything that touches the wire receives a shock.

You can never have too many grounding pikes. For example, I use two for 500 meters of wire.



Batterydrived, showing amount of power
Batterydrived, showing amount of power

Fence tester 

This isn't a must-have, but it's very helpful for making sure your fence has enough power. There are many different types of fence testers, but they all basically do the same thing.

I prefer battery-powered testers that show exactly how much power is running through the fence. I always aim for the highest reading — anything lower usually means something is wrong.

Batterydrived, just sounds if there is power  Downside dont show how much power   Upside its small and easy to have in your pocket
Batterydrived, just sounds if there is power Downside dont show how much power Upside its small and easy to have in your pocket
Grounded, needs no battery downside, you can not use this wintertime
Grounded, needs no battery downside, you can not use this wintertime

Movable plastic posts, no need for insulators
Movable plastic posts, no need for insulators

Fencing posts

The wire has to be secured to posts or some kind of support to work properly.

Wood fence posts
Wood fence posts

Warning sign 

Here in Sweden, the law requires warning signs for electric fencing if it's near a public road or path — one sign every 100 meters. Make sure to check whether your country has a similar regulation.


BONUS: Fencing

To keep predators out, it's always better to have multiple barriers. They can easily jump through an electric wire if there's nothing else in place.

I use a standard "sheep fence" with chicken wire attached closer to the bottom for extra protection.